Computer Wattmeter

Contents

1. Overview
2. Materials
3. Construction
4. Tests


Overview

With an ever-increasing number of users having high-performance computers, one aspect of the computer that is often overlooked is the power consumption. While on the short-term many would not notice this as a crucial factor, on the long term, with just a minute increase in amperage, the electricity bill costs for that tiny extra could add up to a few hundred. Thus, it is crucial that the power consumption of a computer is monitored, but the problem remains that it could not be easily determined. As such, I’ve decided to build my very own DIY wattmeter, which can tell me how much power my computers consumes.

Difficulty: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Cost: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Time: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10


Materials

1. Standard Computer AC Power Cord to cannibalise
2. Multimeter capable of measuring current
3. Penknife and/or wire strippers
4. Electrical tape or anything to join electrical contacts together safely


Construction

Begin with the AC Power Cord (duh).

The AC Power Cord was stripped using the pen knife to reveal the 3 inner wires within.

These are the Live, Neutral and Earth. With some basic physics knowledge, you’ll know that the brown wire represents the Live wire, which is what we’re looking for as the current to the computer passes through it.

A wire cutter and stripper was used to cut the Live wire and stripping it to reveal a portion of the wire.

Using a connector, the wires were held down for easy access using the multimeter.

As it is AC current, it does not matter where the black and red probes of the multimeter go to.

When the circuit is closed, there seems to be a small inaccuracy of the multimeter, displaying 0.02A before the power cord is connected to anything. This could be compensated by subtracting this value off the final reading.

Tests

The power cord is then connected to the main supply and the test computer itself, and the mains is switched on.

Without the computer switched on, the computer already requires 0.02A (0.04A minus off the 0.02A error reading) by the Power Supply Unit to maintain its memory such as the clock timing and to keep the various LEDs lighted up.

The computer is finally switched on. On average, without any load (no programs running intensively), the computer requires about 0.40A. When programs are running and loading, the computer occasionally takes up about 0.60A.

Assuming this computer if left idle for downloading purposes, we can calculate its power consumption by:

Power = Current x Voltage
As the current required when it is idle is 0.40A (possible error of 0.02A), theoretically, the computer will require 0.40A x 230V = 92W when running idle.


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Latest on Sun, 00:10

a: I look up to u!

Peter: Secondary 16 inch of 24 guage mag wire (about 730 turns) Secondary coil diamter is about 1.4" Toroid is 4 inch diamter aluminum ducting in a circle with a 8" inner diamter and 12" outer diameter. I have tried tapping everything to achieve a spark and still nothing. My calculations show that tapping around turn 9 should be resonant. Once concern is that my capacitor .01mF capacito is too high. I didn't think that the .01mF capacitor and 0.007mF would be enough to make a difference. The spark gap fires regularly but no sparks off the toroid. I thought about closing the spark gap from .5 inches to more like a quarter inch or so, so the capacitor wont charge fully. Let me know if you have any advice. I have been working on this for weeks, and have to prevent on Tuesday. Any help is very helpful. Thanks again. -Peter

Peter: Alright, I am building my first coil for a physics class, and I have a little different setup than yours, but am having some problems that I thought someone reading this may be able to help me with. Here's the setup. Primary 12000v 30ma NST 15,000V 0.02mF Capacitor (2 in series) Static Spark Gap (Set around .5 inches) 1/4" copper tube primary (Flat pancake spiral) 1/4" spacing with inner diamter of 6" and outer of 12" and 12 turns.

AMP: tell me that the coke that the facilitator drank is real coke and not the one with charcoal in it ><

Mas: wow derek look at ur pageviews! and dude ur experiments are awesome!!very nice :D

HELiX: Yeah, it's labeled AW(VP) on the pipe, and it's considerably thicker than the normal PVC ones.

Azlyn: Pneumatic gun - how to know the pipe is pressure rated or not ? any markings on the pipe ?

AMP: Eh, with the addition of the Mont Blanc Pen Hack you might want to change your disclaimer to " All experiments and projects presented here except for the Mont Blanc pen hack are highly dangerous....(blahblahblah)." hehe

Shaun Sim: wow cool stuff

HELiX: Testing the new comment wall! :)

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One response so far, want to say something?

  1. gregie says:

    hi.
    you are measuring apparent power, not real power consumption.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_power#Alternating_current

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Disclaimer: All experiments and projects presented here are highly dangerous and purely intended for educational and experimental purposes only. Do not attempt them at any rate.
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